Category Archives: DIY/How-To

DIY Biltong

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Here is the step-by-step, basic process of making biltong. I learned it from Jack Spirko of The Survival Podcast (YouTube video Making Traditional South African Biltong).

Preparing the meat

  • Start with lean strips of beef (or game meat)
  • Slice the meat into approximately one inch thick and one inch wide strips several inches long
  • Remove as much fat as possible (dried fat tastes like candle wax)
  • Place meat in casserole-type dish
  • Spritz all sides with vinegar (apple vinegar works well)
  • Moderately salt (with non-iodized salt)
  • Place in refrigerator overnight
  • Remove and lightly salt again, mixing meat around to coat well
  • Lightly apply coriander, mixing meat around to coat well
  • Moderately apply course ground pepper, mixing meat around to coat well

Meat is now ready to hang

  • To hang, use metal paperclips and bend them into an ‘S’ shape
  • Hang meat somewhere relatively dry (and out of the reach of pets)
  • Hang meat so it’s not touching
  • Using a piece of cord or twine, tie a loop for each piece of meat
  • Clip meat with large part of ‘S’ clip, and attach other side to the looped cord
  • Let meat hang for approximately 8 – 14 days, until dark colored and as dry as you prefer it
  • When dried, cut into small bite size pieces to eat

This is a very basic way of making biltong. It’s really that easy, and no it never stinks. There are many ways of flavoring and drying (including building a drying box). Biltong, completely dry, can store for a long period of time (very dependent on climate and/or refrigeration); biltong left more ‘wet’ will mold sooner and should be refrigerated if kept for more than a few days. Our family really enjoys biltong as a snack, but I also believe it’s valuable to know how to preserve large amounts of meat in a collapse.

(Wednesday: Teaching The Kids)

 

Introduction To Biltong

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Biltong hanging to dry

As a prepper it is important to know multiple ways to preserve food that require little or no energy and no refrigeration. So, today we’re going to introduce biltong. Biltong, from the Dutch bil (“rump”) and tong (“strip”), was brought to southern Africa by Dutch settlers and used as a way to preserve large native game meats. I’m just going to give an overview of it today, and a do it yourself step-by-step process next Monday (5/25/12).

I first heard about biltong from Jack Spirko, on an early episode of The Survival Podcast (TSP) (Episode 27 – 9 Methods of Storing Food for the Modern Survivalist). Jack talks about it regularly, and has a YouTube video on how to make it.

Last fall we made biltong for the first time. It was easy and our family likes it. We don’t make it very much, it’s a little on the pricey side because we buy a lean cut of beef, but we’ve tried it a few times to develop the skill. Of the commonly available store-bought meats, beef is the best (both pork and chicken shouldn’t be eaten raw). Venison, or other large game meats, also make great biltong. Start with a lean cut of meat and cut off as much fat as you can, not because the fat is “bad” for you but, because dried fat kind of tastes like candle wax.

Once you have the meat you only need vinegar, salt, pepper, and coriander (though once you’ve figured it out you can season yours anyway you like). As opposed to jerky, you want your biltong about an inch thick and an inch wide, cut into long strips. The strips should be cut across the grain; this makes it easier to cut into smaller pieces, with the grain, once it’s dried. After it’s seasoned, hang it for about 10 – 14 days to allow it to cure completely. Biltong is also different from jerky because jerky is dried using heat, biltong is dried at room temperature, and uses vinegar to help cure the meat.

Once biltong is completely cured, it can be sliced up into bite-size pieces and stored for a long time. Store in a paper bag that allows oxygen to circulate, so mold doesn’t grow. Some people prefer their biltong more “wet” in the center, so they don’t hang it for as long; biltong prepared this way doesn’t store as long and should be refrigerated to maximize its storage life.

Check back next Monday for DIY Biltong.

(Wednesday: City Cousin)

Momma Bear: Home-Made Reusable Sanitary Napkins

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Just because the SHTF, the monthly cycle will still continue. Sooooooo… what are the ladies in your family going to use for their long-term feminine hygiene needs? Sure, you can stockpile a lifetime worth of sanitary napkins, but what are you going to do with the used ones? They do not compost, and because they are both plastic and filled with blood borne pathogens, you cannot burn them. It is a much better idea to have something reusable ready. So what the heck does that mean???

I found two options: First is something called a “menstrual cup” which comes in both a disposable and reusable form. I am sure from the name you have an idea of what it does, but I had never heard of it before. Ladies can research for themselves to see if that is something they would like to try.

The second option is the old school idea of reusable/washable sanitary napkins. What I was amazed to find out is that people are making these already and selling them on ebay, and other crafting websites, for a RIDICULOUS amount of money (around $10 for one washable pad)! I am here to tell you that anyone with a sewing machine or the patience to hand sew can make their own for a fraction of the cost. They can also be made by recycling old towels and flannel sheets, thus reducing your cost to nothing but thread and labor.

I recently sat down my 13 year-old daughter and broke the “reusable pads” idea to her. It was a great teaching opportunity. I started with a simple question and answer; asking her what she thought ladies did back before plastics, mass manufacturing, and easy access to stores. I explained that if there was a true emergency, resulting in a long-term power outage, we had to go with something washable. I was surprised that she was so open to the idea. So we hit the internet and found Tipnut.com, it’s a great site with MANY different kinds of tutorials on making sanitary napkins.

Because we don’t have surplus flannel sheets, we opted to hit up Wally world for some fabrics. We picked out some nice flannel for close to our skin (a yard for each of us) and something thick, fluffy, and cotton for the inner layers (three yards for the two of us). You can see from the photos that we are using the basic “wings” style pad with a snap for the underside. These are a two-part napkin consisting of the outer “liner” and then an inner “pad” for absorption. Although we used a pattern off the internet, you can just as easily trace what you have in the cupboard.

First, we made copies of our pattern and compared them to the store-bought stuff. In this case the top layer of the liner is one solid piece with wings, and then there are two bottom layers which are about 2/3 of the top pattern each with one wing. This is so that those two pieces (on the bottom) will overlap, allowing you to insert your inner absorption pad. These top/bottom layers are stitched together with the flannel (fuzzy sides) facing each other, then they are turned right side out, ironed, then overstitched again all around the edges. I also stitched an extra line around the pad area, to provide a crease point right about where the wings flip down, thus ensuring the pad wont slip around. Last, we added snaps to the wings.

After sewing all the liners we made the pads. These are anywhere from two to four layers of padding just sewn all together to make a firm rectangular pad. These are the interchangeable inner pads (this would be towelling or absorbent fabric) that are made in different thicknesses for the different levels of flow (*in the photo the opening to insert the inner padding is face up, but this would normally be face down toward the inside of the panty). While we opted for removable inner pads, there is no reason why you couldn’t just make them part of the liner and stitch the whole thing together. We just liked the idea that we could add more pads or take them apart for a more thorough washing. Because of the snaps these are foldable into little square packets for easy storage.

I personally do not sew on a regular basis and found curvy type napkins difficult to make, hence ours look kind of rectangular. I will also caution any novice sewers to make sure they wash and iron their fabrics, before beginning this project, because cotton shrinks. I have to admit that I had trouble with that stupid “snap kit” (and I lost my patience); instead opting to hand sew old school snaps on. Also of mention, we made multiple sized pads because 13 year olds and moms don’t necessarily use the same size of anything. I think in total we spent $23 on fabric and snaps and made ten liners for each of us and 30+ inner pads of different thicknesses. This was a pretty simple project over all that anyone can make.  No insanity required.

(Friday: What We Did This Week To Prep)

Trace’s Note: Be sure to also read our follow up posts by Sierra Kate: Reusables, Self-Reliance & Feminine Hygiene Part  1- Options, and Part 2 – How Do They Perform?

DIY Indoor Grow Box

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In February, Sarah pulled out our grow box–I had made it last year–and got our seeds started. I should have written this post then, so that others could have made their own this year, but unfortunately I didn’t. A friend asked how I made it, so I figured I’d post about it now so that you can build yours for next year. It’s quick and easy.

What you need:

  • plastic Rubbermaid-type bin with lid (the under-the-bed size works well)
  • 4 – 2 x 1/4 inch bolts, with 4 nuts, and 4 – 1 1/2 inch washers
  • 4 – 18 x 1/4 inch pieces of all thread rod, with 8 nuts, and 8 large washers
  • board (plywood or shelving) approximately 24 x 12 inches (dependent on your lid size)
  • 2 aquarium light fixtures with full spectrum fluorescent bulbs

Assembly

1) On the inside of the lid, attach the board with the bolts and nuts, put the washers on the outside of the lid so the bolts won’t pull through the plastic. Line the board up in the inside center of the lid and drill a 1/4 inch hole through each corner of the board, with a matching hole through the lid. This board provides the stable surface to mount the light fixtures.

2) In each corner of the lid drill a 1/4 inch hole and put through the all thread with a nut and washer on each side of the plastic lid. The all thread will be the adjustable “legs”.

 

3) Mount the light fixtures, per the directions, to the board on the inside of the lid.

 

 

Once Completed

Plant your seeds – the container you choose doesn’t really matter, but make sure there are holes in the bottom for drainage. Place the containers in bin, adjusting the all thread so the light is close to the plants. As the plants grow larger the light can be lifted higher by adjusting the nuts on the all thread.

(I used 10 inch all thread, it was high enough when I first started but not enough when the plants grew bigger, so I cut blocks to put under each all thread leg to make them higher.)

After you’ve transplanted all of your sprouted plants, disassemble the legs and slide the entire box under the bed to neatly store until next year.

Simple and it works.

(Wednesday: We Still Want Coffee)

The Greenhouse Is Built!

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How We Built Our Greenhouse – a DIY
– –
We started building the greenhouse the second week of March and I finished it yesterday – six weeks. Sure there are all the excuses and explanations: life is busy, I could only work on it a few days a week (and had to coordinate Ryan’s schedule with mine, when possible), weather was a factor, and we were learning as we were building – but it still took a long time. Now it’s done.

I found the plans we used on BuildEazy.com. I splurged and paid five dollars for the “handy pdf file, ad free”. I printed up the twelve pages of plans, bought the materials needed to get started (the first of many trips to the hardware store), and we began.

The first few steps could be built in the garage. First was the bottom frame; we built it out of pressure-treated 2x8s, 8 feet long. The plans had it built 10 foot by 8 foot – but I hadn’t noticed that before I bought the lumber. Since I only bought four 2x8x8s I went with that, ours would be 8 foot by 8 foot, we modified the plans as needed for the slightly smaller size. Other than the bottom frame we used untreated 2x4s for everything else.

We then framed both sides and built the trusses. I had never built anything that had to be framed before and it was a learning experience. The sides were easy, they were just square. The trusses were tougher, because of the way the window was built into the peak of the roof there were several angle cuts that had to be identical and match up. The 60 degree cuts were especially a hassle because the mitre saw only goes to 45 degrees; they had to be drawn then cut with a circular saw. That was all we were able to pre-build in the garage.

The project then sat for a couple of weeks waiting for a dry weekend when Ryan and I were both available. When that weekend arrived we laid out the bottom frame, put up the two side walls, then attached the trusses. The bottom and sides were pretty easy; we kept the square and level handy, and used them for each piece. The trusses were again harder, it was tough to keep them square – at that point they were only attached on each side and weren’t very stable. But, finally, the structure was outside and coming together (i.e. it sort of looked like a greenhouse).

The directions for the front and back-end walls were far less “exact”, the plans stated “This is pretty much measure, cut, and fix as you go.” We varied from the plans and only put a door on one end (the plans called for a door on both ends). Building the door frame and the door (another thing I had never done before) went slowly and was a challenge because we knew it had to be completely square, or the door wouldn’t work; there also had to be enough space, around the door, to allow for swelling of the wood in wet weather. The hinge placement was another challenge, but we did it and the door fit and closed smoothly.

(All this happened over a period of weeks because of weather and time availability.)

The roof trusses were then secured with ‘strap braces’, galvanized steel braces 2 inches wide and 1/4 inch thick. They connected the opposite corners of the long section of the roof, tying in with nails each of the separate trusses. The trusses were now a lot more stable, but it had been difficult to keep the outside ones from pulling toward the center.

Next was the roof window – the most complex step of the project. This window was one of the reasons I chose this plan, I really liked the ability to be able to open a portion of the roof to release heat on sunny days. The measurements had to be very precise and much of the work was done on ladders; it was also a hassle holding up the window assembly and getting the hinges attached to the frame. But finally it was in place and would open and close smoothly (mostly).

The entire wooden framed structure was now built. We then started on the shelving. There were no directions for this in the plans, so I decided to build the shelf frames at 44 inches from the ground. Sarah, who is 62 inches, came out and saw the height and nicely mentioned that they were a little high; after some discussion I re-installed them to 32 inches – a height much easier for her (our primary plant starter) to work at.

Now the wood part was done and it needed to be covered. For this directions said, “Cover the greenhouse with a UV-resistant polythene (there are other options also).” We did some reading and also talked with the expert at the local hardware store (McLendons – we love them, very helpful and knowledgeable) about the “other options”. We found out the polythene/Visqueen-type plastic, though inexpensive, breaks down because of the sun’s UV rays and the weather and would need to be replaced each year. So, with the goal of making the greenhouse longer lasting and sustainable, we instead purchased polycarbonate plastic that lasts 20+ years. It did cost significantly more, but we felt that it was a one-time cost and a worthwhile investment which would require far less maintenance. It came in 2 foot wide sheets (with some extra for overlapping) and we bought 10 foot lengths.

When we got it home, using a friend’s truck, we first covered the long roof section. This is where we really saw that the framing wasn’t quite square, but fortunately the polycarbonate has a little flex to it and we were able to compensate. The roof was the hardest part, again, all the work had to be done on ladders and we had never used the polycarbonate before. It is relatively easy to cut with a circular saw (kind of), and smaller cuts could be done with my old trusty bandage shears.

The following week we covered both sides, the short side of the roof, and the window (that was a pain). Finally, this last weekend, I was able to get the back, front, and door done and that meant the greenhouse was completely enclosed. All that was left was to finishing the shelving. Sarah determined that a 1/4 inch wire mesh would be the best material, as it would allow water to drain and sunlight to pass through. The sunlight passing through was important because it allows containers on the ground to also get sunlight.

So it’s done. We’re pretty proud of it. I can’t help but smile every time I see it though the window or go outside. I’m really glad we have it. I’m sure the greenhouse will be a regular topic in our posts as we continue to learn, discuss our failures, and celebrate our successes.

north side
south side
east side
west side

Thanks very much to Ryan for all his hard work and time. I also appreciate Chanse helping when he could. And I want to acknowledge and thank Sarah for her technical advice, monetary budgeting, and most of all, patience. (And thanks to my father-in-law, Jay, for his DeWalt compound mitre saw.)

(Wednesday: The City Cousin)

 

Sarah’s View: DIY Potato Box

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This weekend, with the beautiful weather we had here, Trace and I decided to work on some of our outdoor projects. I was able to build my potato box (in one day) and asked Trace if I could share the results, on our blog, sooner rather than later!

This year will be our first year growing potatoes. As we understand the way potatoes grow, they need soil added as the plant grows bigger to further stimulate production. Many people choose to simply mound the dirt around their plants or use old tires for their potato ‘frame’. However, years ago (before Trace) I saw a design for a ‘potato box’ that allows the grower to harvest the baby (or new) potatoes throughout the growing season.

We had already bought all the materials needed: one treated 2x4x12 and ten 1x6x6 boards (actually fence slats).

We pulled out the power tools – my dad’s mitre saw (which now ‘lives’ at our house) and the drills (plural because, if you have two, you don’t have to switch bits between the pre-drilling and the screwing in of the screws) – and, after quick review on how to use each, I got started (I’d used drills before, but not the saw).

My first step was to cut the 2x4x12 into four 33-inch pieces. These will be the upright corner posts. (A handy tip from Trace: measure from the end for each cut, that way you don’t lose the width of the saw blade from your cut). I then cut the 1x6s into twenty 24-inch pieces.

Next, I attached four 1x6s across the upright 2x4s to form the bottom frame into a square.

Originally I’d intended to build up just two layers of boards, leaving the rest to be added as dirt was piled onto the growing potatoes. I realized, however, that there was no reason not to build three sides up completely and only have one unfinished/working side. The first side went slowly as I lined up each board, pre-drilled the holes and then attached them. The second and third sides went much faster as I got used to the tools and the box gained more and more stability.

The fourth side boards will be attached as we add dirt. These will be attached with only one screw on each side, for easy removal, with the intention of harvesting the potatoes at the bottom of the box early, while allowing the rest to continue to grow.

We placed the three-sided box at the corner of our garden, where sun will hit the open side and we had some good dirt. I planted the seed potatoes–Kennebec and Red Pontiac–and hopefully, fingers crossed, we’re good to go for this year’s potato crop.

(Wednesday: Momma Bear)

 

How To Wire Your Gas Furnace To A Generator

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Contributed by Guest Blogger: Rick Brodersen
of Rick’s DIY (HVAC & Electrical DIY)

Wiring your gas furnace to a generator is a project that’s frequently either over-thought or not thought of at all. Some people think you need a high dollar transfer switch wired to your breaker panel, requiring an electrician, or you have to temporarily rewire the breaker to the generator and then rewire everything again once the power comes back on.

But this isn’t the case, NEC (National Electric Code) only requires that appliances be on their own dedicated circuit. So, by simply rewiring your furnace you have the ability to use your furnace with a portable generator (or other auxiliary power). Then when the power goes out, just disconnect the furnace from the outlet and connect it to your generator, and use it like you normally would.

video: How To Wire Your Gas Furnace To A Generator

Materials:
The cost of the materials was less than $20, and all of the items can be found at most hardware stores.

  • Outlet Box
  • Single Outlet Receptacle
  • Outlet Cover Plate
  • Power Supply Cord
  • Cable Connector
  • Misc Wire Nuts, Electrical Tape & Mounting Screws

Tools:

  • Hammer
  • Screwdriver (multi-tip)
  • Side Cutters
  • Wire Strippers
  • Multi-Meter
  • Voltage Stick (optional)
  • Drill (probably a little overkill but if you’re installing the outlet box onto your furnace with sheet metal screws it will be needed)

How To Do It:
Everytime you’re working around electricity you MUST check that the power is OFF and then CHECK AGAIN. You can never be too careful when it comes to this point. (Even after all these years I occasionally still get shocked.)

Turn Off the breaker that controls your furnace. (Keep in mind that a many breaker panels are mislabeled.) Open your furnace and find where your power is coming in from and follow it to the junction box (or in my case, the circuit board.)

Pull off any covers and then test for voltage. I like to use the Fluke Voltage Stick first (ensure it works on a live circuit and then you can test it). After you have verified the power is off, carefully remove the wire nuts and test with a voltmeter. Once you are darn sure there is no power then you are safe to work on it.

Write down, or label your wires, the BLACK (hot), WHITE (neutral) & GREEN (ground). (Some might be red, orange, brown, etc.) You must rewire it exactly as it was: Black to Black, White to White, and Green to Green/Ground. Pull the wires out to the outside of the furnace.

First, install the OUTLET BOX. I put the conduit with the wires coming from the breaker into the outlet box and then level it where I would like to mount it. Screw it to the wall or furnace with the appropriate screws.

Next, you need to wire in your Single Receptacle Outlet. You may need to cut back your wires and strip them. (This is hard to explain in text and is better understood in the video.) Wire your Black (or hot) to the smaller bladed side of the outlet (if you’re facing the outlet this will be the right side) this screw is normally brass/gold in color. The White (or neutral) wires up to the larger bladed side, this screw is usually silver in color. Then the Green (or ground) goes to the last terminal that is bonded with the metal framework of the receptacle, sometimes this screw will be green colored (but every manufacturer is different).

Once wired, carefully push the receptacle back into the outlet box and screw it in, put on the COVER PLATE and we’re ready to move onto the final part.

To install the POWER CORD we have to add in the CABLE CONNECTOR to where the old power cable came into the furnace. Once you have the cable connector in, you can pull the power cord through and secure it.

Next, rewire the power cord to the connections on the furnace. If you’re using wire nuts be sure to Double Check that the wires are secured by tugging on each individually and then taping the connection with electrical tape (you can further secure with tie straps if needed).

Make sure to replace any cover plates, double-check that everything is wired properly and secured. Turn the power back on and check the outlet with your meter (this is not shown in the video) to make sure everything is wired properly. Finally, plug in your furnace and check operations.

video: An Overview: How To Wire Your Gas Furnace To A Generator

ALL DONE
Now that you’re done, test it out with or without your generator. I recommend a test run on a dark, rainy night so you know what it’s going to be like when you’re actually going to have to use it.

Bio
Rick Brodersen is an HVAC/R Mechanic and has worked in the Seattle area for over 15 years, specializing in the commercial service industry. He has instructed at local trade schools and now continues teaching at RicksDIY.com. He is also an avid prepper, hiker, and fisherman who, along with his family, enjoys taking in all the Pacific Northwest has to offer.

Read Rick’s Disclaimer

NOTE: Comments have been closed for this post. Please feel free to read the many, many replies Rick has given, if you still need his help he has asked you contact him directly through his site at RicksDIY.com. 

(Wednesday: Book Review: The Doom and Bloom Survival Medicine Handbook)